Thursday, 24 October 2013

Sewing Pattern Review - New Look 6048

Look what I made!  If it wasn't just slightly too big at the top I would be thrilled with it!

Here's the pattern...

And here's mine. 

Let me start by saying that I have not made a garment from a pattern without having to change something drastic about it for a really long time, so it was really nice to be able to follow the instructions without having to think too hard about the next step.  This is a really simple dress to make and quite fast as well.  I made this one over a few days, sewing for 2 or 3 hours at a time but I was really taking my time with it as I had some issues with fit.  It's the first wearable item I have made on the Singer 201k and I am quite pleased with it.

Miss B chose the pattern and fabric herself and I made this cotton version up as a wearable muslin.  She wants to use this pattern for her graduation dress (made up in fancier fabric obviously).  While I like the dress very much, there are a few things that I'd like to change for the "proper" I guess there shall be no more mindless instruction following for me!  The next version will have a straight neckline and a fuller skirt, maybe with just gathers rather than the pleats.

I did have a bit of bother with the zip on this for some reason but the fault was all mine.  The stitches underneath were not right and after I had unpicked it twice and figured out the issue (the thread wasn't running through the tension disks properly) I really didn't want to have to unpick it yet again so I did a hand picked zip - my first one - with the help of this excellent tutorial here.

I had always thought that they were super fancy, but really they are very easy.  Much easier than trying to insert the zip with a machine.  I was worried that it wouldn't be strong enough, but it seems to be just fine.  It was relaxing to do, no unpicking, looks lovely and gave more control in terms of matching waist seams and the top of the dress.  I think I may do them all that way now so I can say that I give my garments a couture finish, Daahling.  If you haven't ever done one and enjoy a bit of leisurely hand stitching I really recommend trying a hand picked zipper on your next skirt or dress.  I was in the mood for hand sewing so the hem is all done by hand too.  Fancy!

Now onto the pattern review.

New Look 6048

It does look quite like the packet finished, although I thought the skirt would be a little fuller.  It's not a swishy kind of skirt but the pattern uses only a little over 2 yards of fabric, so I guess sacrifices had to be made.  I made it up in a medium weight cotton with some left over homespun as the contrast band at the top.  The method that you use to attach the contrast band to the bodice is different to how I thought it would be but quite clever.  I did think that it should probably have a lining in the bodice and I will probably do one on the next version.  I was really pleased to see that this dress has pockets - that's almost unheard of in a chain store dress and my daughter really likes them.

The only thing I struggled with was the sizing - which is a pretty big issue in my opinion.  According to the pattern envelope my tall skinny 12 year old daughter was a ladies size 14.  Wah?!  I dutifully made up the bodice in that size, fully expecting that it would be too big and it was.  Waaaaay to big - like 5 inches too big at the waist.  So I made it up in a size 8 and let the waist out a little.  The top part of the dress is still too big - I think she might be a 6 up top and a 10 in the waist.  I was a bit disappointed as it is so nice to make something up and just have it fit, but I think that the issue is that these patterns were designed for women, not tweens and because the bodice is quite fitted it isn't very forgiving if you make it up a little larger.  I think that for an adult you would be well advised to make a muslin in your off the rack size and adjust from there.

At any rate, she loves the dress, I enjoyed making it and I will definitely use this pattern again, with a few tweaks.  And here is another photo of her enjoying her dress, but not enjoying being made to pose for photos.  Just because I can :)

She has her "so over this" face on.

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